There are many things that can cause foaming issues.

The issues at the top of the list that can cause problems are temperature and pressure or a combination of both. All of the kits at The Beer Tap Store are balanced for optimum performance with the liquid temperature of the beer @ 38 degrees and an applied pressure of 12 to 14 LBS. With a 5Ft long 3/16” I.D. line connecting the keg coupler to the shank. This is true of most direct draw systems and is the US standard.

Checking the liquid temperature of the beer

Having a thermometer measuring the air temp inside the keg box will not show the temperature of the beer. Thermostat differential settings (the temperatures at which the thermostat turns on and off) makes air temp thermometers unreliable. Use an instant read kitchen dial thermometer to get an accurate temperature of your beer. First check the accuracy of your thermometer by putting it into a pint glass filled completely with ice and topped off with water. After the ice water sits for a couple of minutes it will be @ 32 degrees. Drop in the thermometer and after a minute or two it should read 32 degrees. The thermometer can be adjusted by using a pair of pliers to hold the nut where the probe meets the back of the dial.  While the probe is still in the water turn the dial until the needle rests on the 32 degree mark. Now that you have an accurate thermometer pour a beer and dump it into a pitcher, do it again,(This helps to bring down the temperature of the glass). Fill the glass a third time and put the thermometer into the beer. Let it sit for about 60 seconds and you will get the liquid temp of your beer. Again 38 degrees is optimum so adjust the thermostat accordingly. Oh yeah, share the beers poured into the pitcher with someone you like.

The applied pressure

Since most regulator gauges can read plus or minus 2 to 3 LBS (or more) setting pressure correctly can be tricky. With your beer at 38 degrees set the pressure at 12 LBS, hang around and drink a couple with friends. Give the system a rest, this allows applied pressure and keg pressure time to equalize. Now is time to do a test pour. If the faucet gives a spurt of foam when you open it or the beer runs foamy-clear-foamy-clear the pressure is too low, bump it up 2 LBS and let the pressures equalize for a few minutes.  If the beer runs too fast, turn off the Co2 at the shut off where the tubing connects to the regulator (always turn off the shut off when adjusting the regulator). Release some pressure from the keg by pulling the pressure relief valve on the keg coupler. Drop the pressure 2 LBS, Turn the Co2 line back on and let the pressures equalize. Often you can tell if the pressure is too low by looking at the beer line where it connects to the keg coupler. If you see bubbles rising up the beer line from the coupler the pressure is low or the seal on the keg or coupler is bad.

Fittings

Over many years of trouble shooting we have found that 3/16” bore shanks and fittings can cause a burst effect releasing the carbonation from the liquid. The beer flow looks good but you end up with a glass half full of beer and half foam. For this reason ¼” bore shanks and fittings are always used on the liquid side and the only size we sell at The Beer Tap Store.

Your questions are always welcome. Send them to: info@thebeertapstore.com